I had lots of time this week to knit which is always a good thing.  I got a good head start on a project, plenty of time to read and caught up on tv series I had recorded.  I feel like it was the calm before a storm.  I remembered to contact Redfish, Baah, Briar Rose and Miss Babs to see if they would like to donate some yarn to give as door prizes at the Masters Day in Reno.  The good news is all said yes.

By the way, I just heard that there is still room in two of my classes.  One is the Shoulders and Seams class.  It is mostly finishing but we do short rows.  The other is my Gauge class.  This is the last time I will teach it.  (Sniff) 

STUDENT NEWS
I got lots of new course orders this week, many due to Sue from IN who finished up the course a few weeks ago.  It makes me very happy that she feels the class was so beneficial that she recommended it to friends.

TIP OF THE WEEK
Here is one of those topics, like tension,  that gives the reviewers in the Masters Program the reputation as the "Knitting Police"...BLOCKING.  If you are doing swatches for the Masters Program (or for my Basics class) all of the swatches must be blocked before they are submitted.  To be properly blocked, the edges should not be curled, the corners should be squared off, and the sides should be the same length.  This is part of "finishing" for the swatch.   It demonstrates your best work.   Tip of the Week

Several factors impact blocking. First of all, you have to use a fiber which can be blocked.  It is next to impossible to adequately block some fibers.  For example, it is next to impossible to block acrylics.  Try knitting a small stockinette swatch.  Photograph it.  Block it properly.  Compare the before photo to the swatch.  There will be almost no difference.  The sides and the top and bottom will be curled.  Yes, you can try steam blocking acrylics but be careful, the fabric might melt.  Part of becoming a Master Knitter is understanding what fiber to select for projects.  If the fiber cannot be blocked, it should not be used for swatches.

The stitch pattern is also a consideration.  Stitch patterns, like stockinette, which produce curled edges should be blocked.  Some knitters don't block stockinette if the edges will be seamed.  Keep in mind it is easier to finish edges which have been blocked.  Some stitch patterns, like lace, MUST be blocked.  If you don't, it won't look like lace.  Trick Question:  Should acrylics ever be used for lace?  See above.  Textured stitch patterns, like cable and ribbing, must be blocked very carefully.  Always consider how you want them to look in the final product.  For example, I would block the pieces for a Aran sweater very differently than I blocked the Medusa Coat (see below) where I wanted the cables to appear like embossed motifs.  Don't stretch ribbing or cables unless you want to completely flatten them.

The blocking method depends upon the fiber and the final results.  For most projects, wet blocking works.  Why?  Think about how you are going to launder the final fabric.  The one thing that I am not going to discuss in this blog is the mechanics of blocking.  Leslie Gonzalez, one of the co-chairs of the Master Hand Knitting Committee has an EXCELLENT video on how to block.  Here is the link:  Leslie's Blocking Video. 

If you ask most knitters to name three things they don't like to do their answers will include knitting gauge swatches, blocking and finishing.  (I think many knitters dislike doing these things since they aren't sure how to do them properly.)  Unfortunately it is these three things that make knitted garments fit and look hand made rather than home made.  What most knitters like to do is knit.  Their excuse is that these things take too long.  Yes, they do add time to the project but if you put it in perspective how long you hope to have the garment, it may not see that long after all. 

A gauge swatch is what you should do BEFORE knitting the project and blocking and proper finishing are what you do after knitting the project.

I've had knitters complain to me that, yes, they did knit a gauge swatch but the garment still didn't fit.  When I ask them if they blocked the gauge swatch, they look at me as if I have asked a completely ridiculous question.  How on earth are you supposed to know what the final fabric will look like unless you block your gauge swatch?  How can you get an accurate measurement?  Blocking the gauge swatch is essential. 

There is blocking for the Masters Program and then there is blocking in real life.  What do I recommend?  You will always find knitters who say they rarely block.  Good for them.  In some projects you can get by without blocking.  If you are knitting a stockinette baby sweater using acrylic yarn, why bother?  It wouldn't make a bit of difference.

I recently read The Ravell'd Sleeve:The Journal of the Couture Knitting Workshop  by Catherine Lowe (thanks for the recommend Suzanne) and I discovered that I have the same approach to knitting.  I like my garments to have a polished look and proper blocking contributes to that look.  I always wet block.  A friend of mine who is a dyer told me that to properly wet the fabric, it needs to completely absorb the water so I fill a basin with water and I place the fabric on top of the water.  Sometimes it takes minutes, sometimes it takes all night.  I always block my gauge swatches (even garter stitch).  I block the pieces before finishing and I sometimes block again after finishing. 

How you block or whether you block at all is up to you and how you want your final project to look is up to you.  One word of advice....be VERY careful if you use a steam iron.  During my time on the Masters Committee I reviewed thousands of swatches and the worst ones I ever saw were over blocked by steaming.  The stitch patterns were flattened and the fabric was sometimes scorched.  It was enough to make me put my steam iron away forever. 

KNITTING SALON
Salon will be on Saturday this weekend.  Generally in the fall I try to have Salon on Sunday so as not to interfere with the football schedule.  Sad to say, even my friends who were fanatical about going in the past are not going this year.  Doesn't bode well for the Cats.

CURRENT PROJECTS
I did finish up my Medusa coat and I am pleased.  Too bad it isn't cold enough to wear it yet.  I should be able to wear it in Reno.  By the way, I blocked this fabric very firmly.  As I said above, I wanted the snakes to appear embossed on a background of reverse stockinette. 

 

 

I finished up the second Leaves of Spring sock but I didn't bother to photograph it.

 

I got started on the side-to-side garter stitch skirt.  It is such a pleasant change from Medusa's Coat where I really had to pay attention.  I can read while working on it.  I used a provisional cast on and the skirt is shaped by short rows.  I selected Kauni Effekts as the color changes work well with the short rows.  I pinned it to the dress form.  Even thought it is garter stitch, am I going to block it? Of course.

 

 

 

 



 

 

 

I have spent the week chained to the computer.  I am about halfway done with the handout for the finishing course.  It is shaping up quite nicely.  It has tons of photographs in it which will make it much more useful to the attendees but a pain to write.  Registration is now closed.  I'm asking the students to bring a binder and page protectors.  They will have a very complete reference guide to take home.  I decided to knit the swatches for the examples with size 11 needles so that the stitches are very visible.  I think this is very brave of me as it is REALLY hard to knit with decent tension on needles that size. 

STUDENT NEWS
I had lots of lessons to review this week which is great.  Keep them coming!  For those of you working on Lesson 3 and who want to do the extra credit, I can send you the pattern template we use for the Masters Program.  It is much easier to write a pattern when you have a specific format to follow.   Just let me know if you want the template and I can send you the link.

TIP OF THE WEEK--CALCULATING GAUGE
This is the last tip about how to measure and calculate gauge.  Once you have your measurements and stitch/row counts, you can do the final calculations.  I am a math idiot and even I can do this.

Stitch Gauge:  Divide the number of stitches by the width.  Using the Garter stitch example below, 23 stitches divided by the width of 4.125 is 5.575.  This is the number of stitches per inch.  How useful is this number?  Not all that much unless you are designing or adapting a pattern.  If you look at any pattern or at the ball band on a skein of yarn, it gives you the gauge for 4".  This is the "standard" (if anything is "standard" in the world of knitting).  By the way, this is a totally random number.  It could be anything.  So if I want to compare my gauge to the expected gauge for the yarn or the gauge required for a pattern, I need to multiply my gauge per inch (5.575) by 4 to get a more useful figure.  This gives  me 22.303.  Since I can't cast on .303 of a stitch, I round it down to 22.  My stitch gauge over 4 inches is 22.  Now have have something I can work with. 

Row Gauge: I repeat this for the row gauge.  32 rows divided by 2.875 is 11.130.  I multiply this by 4 to get 44.521 and since I can't knit .521 of a row, I round it up to 45.  How important is row gauge?  It depends on the stitch pattern you are working.  If the pattern is stockinette or garter or some pattern where there is no row repeat, you can always knit fewer or more rows to get the length specified in a pattern.  If the stitch pattern has a row repeat, row gauge is much more important.  For many patterns, you just can't stop in the middle of a repeat.  The stitch count might be wrong or it might look really unbalanced.

I've annotated the photographs of the stitch patterns I used for the marking and measuring tips with the final gauge.

Garter Stitch

Stockinette Stitch

Seed Stitch

Cable

I uploaded a video of me doing the calculations yesterday.  How exciting is that!  Gauge Video
That is the problem with gauge.  It isn't fun and exciting but it is SO important.  A great many of the knitters taking my Basics class do so because they'd like their projects to fit.  The solution to that problem is an understanding of gauge.  As soon as I finish up the handouts for the finishing course I am going to start working on a correspondence course for gauge.  It will cover (among other topics) how to use gauge to alter patterns and how to use gauge to design garments.

KNITTING SALON
The opera last week was wonderful.  I'd never seen Manon before and I wasn't familiar with the music but the French demi-monde always makes for great costumes and plots.  The final simulcast is this Saturday.  Another demi-monde story...La Traviata.  It was the first live opera I saw and it made quite an impression.  This should be a fantastic production.  Violetta is sung by Natalie Dessay who actually looks like she could be dying of consumption.  So Salon will be on Sunday like last week. 

CURRENT PROJECTS
I am so anxious to finish the Decoration Day jacket.  The sleeves are done and I am working on the front bands.  They are taking FOREVER!  This isn't surprising when I consider that I have over 600 stitches on the needles.  I was dreading figuring out the pattern for the bands.  I knew I wanted a the peony design with the borders from the bottom but I assumed I'd have to do some regraphing at the back of the neck.  I couldn't believe it when after I'd cast on the stitches that I was only 2 stitches off from my 31 stitch repeat.  No regraphing required.  I hope that is the case for the other sizes!  That would be nice. 

The front bands will have a facing but it will be in just one color.  I hope to have it completely finished by mid week.  We shall see. 

I intentionally did not mention the craziness that has been going on here in Lexington for the past few weeks.  I didn't want to jinx it.  I am not a sports fan but it was impossible not to get caught up in the excitement of UK's basketball championship.  I did try to talk my 80 year old neighbors into dragging their couch out into the street and setting it on fire but no such luck.  We've gone from basketball craziness to horse racing craziness.  Today is the first day of Keeneland's season (the local racetrack) and then it is Derby.  Kentucky is an interesting place to live in the spring. 

I suddenly realized this week that I had not started the handouts for the course in Mackinac yet.  Since I promised to do a very complete handout for the students which will can be used as a finishing reference guide, I thought maybe I should start it.  I'm devoting my mornings to it.  So far it is coming along very well.  I am knitting the samples for the handout with very large needles so you can clearly see the stitches.  I'm debating about including samples of how NOT to do things....Sometimes that can backfire!

STUDENT NEWS
Another fairly slow week.  All of the lessons I reviewed this week came on one day.  It it my policy to review lessons the day I get them so that was a busy day. 

TIP OF THE WEEK--MEASURING AND COUNTING FOR GAUGE
This tip is a continuation of last week's tip.  If you haven't looked at it you may want to scroll down and read it first.

Once you have completed your gauge swatch and marked the width and length in the center, you are ready to take the measurements.  Most knitters measure gauge by placing a ruler on a swatch and counting the stitches and rows.  This method does not always provide accurate results.  In the Masters Program we measure gauge in a very specific way. 

• Measure the width and length within the markers to the closest eighth of an inch.  Write down the measurement converting it to a decimal (1/8 = .125, 1/4 = .25, 3/8 = .375, 1/2 = .5, 5/8 = .625, 3/4 = .75, 7/8= .875). 
• Count the rows and stitches within the markers and write down these numbers.

Your gauge calculations will only be as accurate as your measurements and your stitch and row counts.  If those numbers are wrong, so will your gauge calculations.  (Next week's tip will be about the calculations.)  By the way, I am a complete MATH IDIOT and if I can do this, ANYONE can.  For years, my gauge calculations involved casting on 10 stitches and working 4 rows and a tape measure which was older than me.  You won't be surprised to find out that I frequently had to rip out 4 inches of knitting and start again.  When I started designing, I starting taking gauge seriously as I didn't have the luxury of redoing things.

The photographs which follow are pretty self-explanatory.  I have provided photographs with the measurements and stitch/row counts.  When you measure, always use a metal or wooden ruler.  They don't stretch out.  Place the swatch on a flat surface.  If it is a slippery fiber, you may want to pin it in place. 

Garter Stitch Width-Stitches

It can be tricky to count garter stitches.  Remember, the "frown" is the stitch, the "smile" is the space between stitches.

Garter Stitch Length-Rows

Garter stitch rows are easy to count.  Each ridge is two rows.  Just count the ridges and multiply by two.  I didn't bother to mark them.

Stockinette Stitch Width/Stitches

Counting stockinette stitches is a bit trickier.  A stitch is a "\/".  The space between the stitches is a
"/\".  I cannot stress how important it is that you recognize the difference, not just for gauge but for finishing.   By the way, I apologize for the strikeouts.  I didn't notice I'd labeled as "Rows" until I'd saved the changes.  I just couldn't face redoing it!

Stockinette Stitch Length/Rows

I've numbered the rows as well.  What I do when I am counting rows is to use a tapestry needle and insert it into the center of each stitch as I count it.

Seed Stitch Width/Stitches

At least I am consistent with my mistakes!  It is easier to count the number of stitches in seed stitch.  The columns are easy to see.

Seed Stitch Length/Rows

It isn't hard to count rows in seed stitch if you mark it carefully.  Place the marker at the lower edge below the knit stitch and place the marker at the top above the purl bump.  Then you can count the purl bumps and as with garter stitch, multiply it by two.

Cable Width/Stitches

Counting stitches in cable patterns can be difficult.  It is much easier to count pattern multiples. 

Cable Length

If counting stitches in cable patterns is difficult, it is almost impossible to count the rows.  It is easier to count the reverse stockinette stitches between the cables.  You can always turn the swatch over and count the stockinette stitches if that is easier.

Cable Stitches on WS

When you are working gauge swatches, you can save yourself time if you carefully note the number of stitches and rows as you work them.  Remember, to subtract selvedge stitches and cast on and bind off rows in your counts.

Next week we will do the gauge calculations.

KNITTING SALON
Salon will be on Sunday (Easter) since Saturday I will be at the theater watching the simulcast of the Met's Manon which I have never seen.  I am looking forward to it.

CURRENT PROJECTS
I haven't bothered to take a photo of the Decoration Day sweater.  I finished the first sleeve and am half way finished with the second.  I hope to finish it up during the weekend and get started on the front bands.  Then on to the cable sweater in Vlad.

I was out of town for a few days this week on a short trip to Asheville, NC, a knitter's paradise.  I didn't have much time to shop around but I did get to a few shops.  I am looking for a very particular Japanese stitch dictionary to add to my collection.  I saw it at Stitches West but by the time I got back to the booth, it had been snapped up.  Alas, no one had it.

STUDENT NEWS
It was a slow week which worked out fine since I was out of town.  Again, I blame the weather!  Who wants to work on swatches when the weather is so lovely?

TIP OF THE WEEK--MAKING A GAUGE SWATCH
The tip this week may not be of interest to knitters not taking the Basics course or doing the Masters program.  However, this information would benefit any knitter.  The importance of gauge cannot be overstated (if you want something to fit!) but most knitters give it very scant attention.  I think the reason why is that we are so anxious to begin a project we skip this important step. 

The way NOT to measure gauge is to cast on 20 or so stitches, knit a few rows, and then grab a measuring tape, mark off an inch and count the stitches.  This simply is not accurate and does not work. 

• The first step is to work the gauge swatch a few days before beginning the project.  The ideal time to work a gauge swatch is BEFORE you finish your current project.   You will be less likely to skip steps. 
• Look at the gauge statement for the project.  It will specify the number of stitches and rows measured over 4 inches.  It should also indicate the stitch pattern. 
• Cast on more than the number of stitches specified.  Work more than the number of rows specified.  If the pattern is cable or lace, you might want to add a few stitches for a border.  It will make measuring the gauge easier.
• BLOCK THE SWATCH!!!!!!!  Most skip this step.  The gauge swatch should replicate how the stitch pattern will look on the finished project.  This is particularly important for cables and lace.
• Mark the swatch for measurement.
• Keep the swatch.  Don't rip it out.  You might find it useful later!

This week's tip concerns how to mark the swatch.  Next weeks tip will be how to measure and calculate the gauge.  DO NOT INCLUDE the selvedge stitches in the portion to be measured.  They are not the same width as a stitch.  DO NOT INCLUDE the cast on and bind off edges in the portion to be measured.  They are not the same height as a row.  Place the width markers BETWEEN stitches, not in a stitch.  Place the length markers between rows or before the bind off or after the cast on edges.  I have included photos of garter, stockinette, and seed stitch.

Garter Stitch with ribbing

Stockinette Stitch

Seed Stitch

It is pretty easy to mark stitch patterns like these.  For the width, you just have to identify where a stitch begins and ends.  For the length, you have to exclude the cast on and bind off edges.  Cable patterns are a bit different.  Depending on the pattern the width will differ.  For the best results, measure the swatch at the center points.  You will get more accurate results if you measure complete pattern multiples.  In the photo below, there are three patterns multiples.

Cable Swatch

Measuring the swatch at the center will more closely approximate how the pattern will appear in a garment. 

The video shows how the markers were placed for these swatches:  Placing Markers for Gauge video.  Next week's tip will cover counting stitches and rows and measuring the swatches.

CURRENT PROJECTS
I'm still working on the Decoration Day sweater.  I've finished and blocked the sweater body and am now working on Sleeve 1.  I went ahead and sewed the shoulder seams.  

The sleeves have the same border design as the sweater body, minus the fish.  I hope to finish up Sleeve 1 and most of Sleeve 2 next week. 

I have been sick this entire week.  Colds make me stupid.  I hope this post makes some sense!  I did rally to review the lessons which arrived but I spent most of the week coughing, sneezing and complaining.  I had hoped to finish up the pattern for the Vlad tunic but I have put it off until I am thinking more clearly.  My other goal was to start on the handouts for the Mackinac course.  The handouts will be a complete reference guide for finishing.  I am quite excited about them.  Maybe next week...if this cold EVER goes away!

STUDENT NEWS
Again, if you have ordered this class any time that I have been the instructor, I am happy to have you continue.  You don't need to contact TKGA to ask for permission.  Just send me an email or a message through Ravelry and I will be happy to send updated materials.  If you have completed any of the lessons, let me know.

TIP OF THE WEEK--RIBBING TENSION
The tips for the first three weeks discussed how to improve ribbing, seed stitch and cables by bringing the working yarn forward very tightly when changing from a knit to a purl.  For some knitters, this can be difficult due to hand issues or how they knit.  This week I will discuss another technique you can try.

The other ribbing samples were K2P2 ribbing.  It is easy to identify over sized stitches in K2P2 ribbing since the stitches in the second column of knit stitches are so much larger.  It is a little more difficult to see this in K1P1 ribbing.  K1P1 ribbing should be tight with the purl stitches barely visible.  If you compare the two examples you can see the difference.  Another thing you should look at is the size of the knit stitches.  In both the Basics class and Level 1 of the Masters program there is a stockinette swatch with K1P1 ribbing.  When you do these swatches, compare the size of the knit stitches in the ribbing to the knit stitches in the stockinette portion.  They will never be the same size but if they are significantly larger you may want to give it another try.   How do you you fix this?  You can bring the yarn forward tightly as discussed in the previous Tips but if that isn't comfortable or doesn't work for you, try this instead.  When you go to work the purl stitches, instead of wrapping the yarn OVER the needle as you normally would, wrap the yarn UNDER the needle instead.  Look carefully when you do this and you will see that this significantly reduces the amount of yarn in the stitch.  It also forces you to bring the yarn forward more tightly.  The important thing to remember is that this alters the position of the resulting stitch on the needle.  Normally, the right leg of a stitch is on the "front" of the needle.  When you wrap the stitch the opposite direction, this places the left leg of the stitch on the front and if you work the stitch as you normally would, it will twist the stitch (not a good idea).  When you use this technique you must work the resulting stitches through the back if you do not want twisted stitches.  Also try to use just the tips of the needles.  This helps keep the stitches small as well.

Many knitters routinely do this for purl rows to correct tension issues.  It is called combination knitting.  Others use it only for ribbing and seed stitch or for the first purl stitch following a cable.

I recorded a short video showing this technique.  Tip of the Week video

KNITTING SALON
Salon will be on Saturday this week.  There is a basketball game but it is an away game at 6 pm.  It was a choice between the Wildcats or the Superbowl. 

CURRENT PROJECT
The front and back of the tunic are finished and blocked.  I spent the week on the sleeves.  Luckily, they didn't require much thought.  Colds make me so stupid.  There is no way I can do the pattern until my head clears.  As it is, I had to rip out the sleeves after about 6" as I needed to adjust the increase placement.  Since I was too sick to do much else, I just knit and watched crap television.  I finished up last night.  I just have to block them.  I should have the tunic finished by Sunday.  The only thing left for the next issue of Cast On is the over-the-knee socks.  I am doing an article on jogless joins with a pair of striped socks.  My daughters informed me that over-the-knee socks are quite the thing now. They shouldn't take long. 

I pinned the pieces to the dress form.  I've haven't cut out the dental elastics yet.  I placed them at the decreases so I can write the pattern.   The notes I make when knitting aren't that great.  I find it much more useful to write the pattern from the garment.

I worked the sleeves at the same time using the replacement Signature needle.  Again, I am very impressed by the customer service.  They may be expensive but they are worth it.  The stiletto points are ideal for cables.