Yarnover Buttonholes in Seed Stitch

I spent last week adding the projects for the Summer 2015, Fall 2015, Winter 2016 and Spring 2016 to Ravelry.  The person who had been doing this left the office and I didn't notice for awhile.  After discussing who should be doing this, I just decided to get it done.  I have to say it was a TON of work but I'm glad I did it.  Now I will do it as soon as the magazine is published or maybe a few days before.

This week we discussed the events for the conference since registration will go live next week.  We will, of course, do the yarn tasting again this year but instead of the goody bags we will be doing several door prizes.  It is very expensive shipping that yarn all over the country, both for us and for the sponsors and putting together those goody bags was a massive effort.

STUDENT NEWS
Just a reminder, please let me know when you send a lesson and include a tracking number.  By the way, I had a request to change the color of the video links.  I am trying out red.

TIP OF THE WEEK
I hadn't planned on discussing this topic but I reviewed a swatch from a student of my Finishing class where this occurred.  Since Level 2 of the Masters Program requires buttonholes in seed stitch, I thought I'd discuss this.  



When you work a buttonhole in any type of stitch pattern, it is important that the stitch pattern not be interrupted after the buttonhole is made.  Seed stitch can be used as an example of stitch patterns.  I've seen many knitters who go into a the default mode of always working a K2tog after a yarnover but this may not work for all stitch patterns.  In the photograph, notice that the stitch pattern is continued. after the buttonhole.  In the photograph below, this is not the case.



Notice there is a column of knit stitches to the left of the buttonhole.  As you work the buttonholes, if you plan to make the yarnover and then a K2tog, pay attention to the second stitch after the yarnover. In the example above, the first stitch after the first stitch after the yarnover was a purl stitch and the second stitch is a knit stitch.  When you work these two stitches together, the second stitch is on top which disrupts the pattern.  (If you work a P2tog in this situation, the pattern is maintained.)  The videos demonstrates this.  Yarnover Buttonholes in Seed Stitch

Someone asked me about yarnover buttonholes in garter stitch.  There is no stitch pattern to worry about so you just have to place them.  I've used yarnover buttonholes in garter stitch before and the only problem I have noted is that they can be hard to see.  I generally work vertical buttonholes in garter stitch.  (I've stretched the swatch in the photo below.) 



KNITTING SALON
Salon will be from 3:30-5:30.  

CURRENT PROJECTS
For the past two weeks I've been my Summer Nights sweater for Elff of Redfish Dyeoworks.  In a weak moment I said I would knit it for her so she can wear it to shows.  Believe it or not, this is mindless knitting for me.  The next call for designs is due on April 1st so I should have time to finish this up.  I just have to remember to order clasps!  The original sweater is here Summer Nights...

Simple Yarnover Buttonholes

I was out of town a few days last week.  It was nice to get away from the cold weather for awhile. Several lessons were waiting for me when I got home.

STUDENT NEWS

After I have reviewed a lesson, I send an email with my letter and the next lesson attached.  The swatches generally go in the mail the next day.  I have been known to forget to attach the letter or the wrong lesson.  Please let me know as soon as possible and I will get the right information to you. If I am not at home (and have just my iPad) I may not be able to check this immediately but I will fix it.  I apologize to anyone who has had to wait!

TIP OF THE WEEK

The next few articles in the Finishing With Confidence series in Cast On.  The first was about yarnover buttonholes.  Buttonholes are also part of Level 2 of the Masters Program.

Eyelet buttonholes are probably the most common type of buttonhole as they are easy to make and to place.  The disadvantages of this type of buttonhole is that it is fairly small and not that strong. With that said, I still use them quite a bit. 

Some sources say to work to two stitches before the location for the buttonhole, then K2tog, yo.  I rarely do this as I prefer to work the yarnover first, then the K2tog.  I find it easier.  I can see exactly where the buttonhole will be.  The other reason is that I prefer how it looks.  When you work a K2tog decrease, the stitch to the left is on top of the stitch to the right which makes it slant to the right. This falls into the "Number of Angels That Can Fit On A Head of A Pin" type of discussion but I prefer to have the stitch on the side of the buttonhole to be on top, that than the buttonhole stitch.

This isn't as big a deal if you are working the buttonhole in stockinette but for other stitch patterns it can make a difference.  In the photograph which shows a buttonhole in ribbing, the instructions above were followed.  Notice how the purl stitch is on top of the knit stitch and the column of knit stitches has been interrupted.  This is tacky looking.  (An SSK would have solved this problem.)

A feature (or flaw, depending on how you look at it) is that  yarnover buttonholes can be almost invisible in some stitch patterns.  There are two buttonholes in the photograph below.  I might have to stretch it a bit to find the buttonholes.



In the photograph below I have pulled the garter stitch fabric so that the buttonhole is more visible. Quite a few years ago, a knitting group here did a knit along of Sally Melville's Einstein Coat which is all garter stitch and several of them could not find their buttonholes when they had finished the coat.

As I mentioned before, working eyelet buttonholes in K1P1 ribbing can require some thought.  If you want to use K2tog decreases, make your yarnover first.  If you want to work the decrease first and then the yarnover, use SSK decreases.  In the photograph below I have stretched the swatch so that you can see I have used two different types of decreases.  (This is the same swatch as in the photograph above, by the way.)   You can see that the final results are pretty much the same.



Here is the video for these buttonholes.  Yarnover Buttonholes

KNITTING SALON

Salon will be on Sunday from 1-3 pm.  

CURRENT PROJECTS

If I am not working to a deadline I can take forever to do the simplest thing.  The two projects I have been working done the past two weeks demonstrate this.  I was knitting a pair of socks for Stephanie's birthday and when I went to block them, I realized that the second socks was about 1/4" wider than the first sock.  At first I thought that I had used a different needle size but then I realized I had made the second sock with a different number of stitches.  I went on autopilot.  Since the socks didn't require a specific multiple I didn't notice.  Luckily Jane at Magpie yarn had another skein of the same yarn so I knit a third sock.  I decided to make a mate for the first sock so now I have knit four.  Since I have so much yarn left, I am making a pair of anklets for another friend.  Everyone gets pink socks this year!

My next project was a pair of socks for the person who lent me the nautical map we used for our photo shoot two weeks ago.  Here is George guarding Version 1.

Version 1 was knit on 2.25mm needles with a total of 72 stitches.  I was about 3 inches above the heel when I decided I didn't like it.  So I started Version 2 which was knit on 2.5 mm needles on 64 stitches.  I was at about the same place when I decided I didn't like the cable spacing so I started over again.  Here is Version 3 which I do like.  I never pull these stunts when I am knitting to a deadline. 

 

I do like the pattern on these.  I want to do another project where the cables shift, maybe a vest.

How NOT to Make Lifted Increases

I drove up to Zanesville for the photo shoot this week.  The weather was not ideal but at least I didn't get snowed out like last year.  The printer delivered the Spring issue while I was there.  It turned out very nicely.

STUDENT NEWS
I'm glad my students are getting back to knitting their swatches.  I've been receiving quite a few lessons to review. Again, when you send your lesson, if you think of it, send me an email that it is on its way and include a tracking number.

TIP OF THE WEEK
This week's topic is about lifted increases.  Over the years I've noticed that lots of knitters have problems with these and they generally make one of two mistakes.  The video I've done shows how NOT to make them.  In the photograph I have three sets of lifted increases.  The ones with the red arrows are correct.  When you make a lifted increase you use the leg of the stitch below.  If you use the right leg, the increase seems to slant towards the right and if you use the left leg, it slants towards the left.   The pair indicated with the yellow arrows show a common error.  If you insert your needle into the center of the stitch below, this is what it looks like.  There is a big hole at the base.  After looking at these, I might actually considering doing this on a project.  They are rather decorative. The purple arrows show the most common error I see in the lessons.  Most knitters are hardwired to ALWAYS work stitches through the front and depending on how you lift the stitch leg and put it on your needle, you might twist the loop if you knit it through the front.   These sort of look like M1 increases except they are bulky as they twist the leg of the stitch below rather than use the horizontal bar between.  To see how NOT to make the lifted increases, watch this video:  The wrong way to make lifted increases.  By the way, if you'd discovered another wrong method, let me know.




KNITTING SALON
Salon will be on Sunday from 1:30-3:30.  I made a stop at Goumas Chocolates while I was in Ohio and there should be some left by Sunday...

CURRENT PROJECTS
I didn't think I'd finish the lacy dress but I did.  I took some photos at the photo shoot.  The dress looked wonderful on the model. 

                                                                                                                        
Here is the lacy dress....It is too bad the photo can't show how well it moves.  It really is lighter than air.

Circular Knitting Math

This was the view from my back door a week ago.  I'm not sure what the final totals were but it was a lot of snow.  Unlike last year, there was a warm up a couple of days after the storm and most of the snow is now gone.

My friend Jan, who lives in the country stayed with us to avoid getting stranded.  She is the Cat Whisperer.  She spent  time photographing George.  This may be my favorite.



He is a very tolerant cat.  Petipa would put up with this for a minute.

STUDENT NEWS
Our very intrepid mail carrier made it through the storm to deliver several lessons.  Reviewing them helped keep me busy.  Again, as a reminder, please send me the tracking number for your packages so I can watch for them.

TIP OF THE WEEK
This is a continuation from the topic last week.  The knitter who originally contacted me sent me another email.  One of the things she wanted to know was the math for using the various options for circular knitting.  I am a math idiot but this is the kind of math I can do.  If you have four DPN needles, divide the total number of stitches by 3.  If you have five DPNs, divide by 4.  If you are using two circulars, divide by 2.  I think the main reason for the question was about dividing stitches when using the Magic Loop technique.  I don't think it matters much.  In fact, I think you are better off by changing it up every few rounds.  If you keep the needles in the same position, you might get ladders between the column of stitches. 

You will meet knitters who will try and tell you that there is only one way to do circular knitting. Ignore them.  Needle choice is personal.  I do not enjoy the Magic Loop.  It drives me crazy sliding the stitches around so much.  I use DPNs or smaller circular needles.  Is that the "right" way. Absolutely not!  It is just what I like.  The videos (there are two) show DPNs, two circulars, and the Magic Loop.  Circular Needle Math Part 1 and Circular Needle Math Part 2.

KNITTING SALON
There won't be salon this weekend as I am going out of town.  I will have salon on February 7th at 1:30-3:20.  
CURRENT PROJECTS
I finally finished the dress.  I haven't written the pattern yet so it isn't completely finished...yarn tails, etc.

Now I am working on the lacy overdress.  It is the same yarn as the dress, just one strand and size 8 needles.  It is a top-down, raglan construction.

Circular Knitting Cast On

I spent last weekend in San Diego at TNNA, the trade show for our industry.  Three committee member of the Masters Program joined me, Celia McAdam Cahill, Carla Pera and Christina Hanger. We visited all of the booths to look at new products.  Starting with the Summer issue of Cast On, we will no longer be reviewing new products in the magazine.  The publication lag time is just too great.  Instead, we will be releasing a video in February with interview of various vendors showcasing the products which excited us.  It was ton of fun.

STUDENT NEWS
Things are picking up after the holidays.  I received several lessons while I was out of town.  Since I've spend the better part of the day trying to help locate a Masters Program submission which is MIA I'd like to ask all of my students to send me an email with a tracking number when you send me a package.  UPS and USPS include the tracking number on receipts.  It is much easier to find a package if you know it is missing immediately!  I try to remember to include the tracking information in the email with the review letter.  If I do not, remind me!

TIP OF THE WEEK
This week's tip is inspired by a question sent to TKGA.  Someone wanted to know if we had a course on the problems with circular knitting.  I had to stop and think.  I'm not used to thinking there are problems with circular knitting except for avoiding jogs in Fair Isle.  Sometimes I get so caught up in minutiae of techniques I forget what it was like when I first started knitting.  So...this weeks topic is about casting on in the round.  I'll cover other issues with circular knitting in upcoming weeks.

One problem thing that can occur if you are using too long of a circular needle and you are not familiar with the Magic Loop method.  The cast on can be quite tight until the first row is worked. If the cord is long it can be difficult to stretch the stitches from the tip of one needle to the next.  You can use the Magic Loop method or work the first few rows on DPNs.

If you look at any pattern worked in the round and the first instruction will ALWAYS be "Join into a round taking care not to twist the sts" or something similar.  Anyone who has ever twisted the cast on row knows why this is the case.  The photo below shows what a twisted cast on looks like after you have worked a couple of rounds.



I have done this more times than I like to admit.  Yes, you can flip the needle around but you will have to bring the working yarn under the cast on edge which really detracts from its general appearance and can impact how much the cast on edge can stretch.  It also is just plain ugly.

If you look closely you can see where the edge is twisted (plus there is a big red arrow marking it.)  It is pretty subtle on the first row where you only have a few strands of yarn.  This is why most of us don't notice it until the second round.



Whenever you are working in the round, check your cast on edge very carefully before you join in the round.   If you don't and you discover this later, the best solution is to start over.  I've actually fixed this before but it isn't something I will ever do again.  It distorts the tension too much.

Here is what your cast on should look like before you join.



The other issue is how you join the last cast on stitch to the first to avoid a wide space between the two stitches.  The three most common ways to do this is to just knit the first stitch taking care to pull the working yarn quite tight.  The yarn tail can be used to neaten up the edge when the project is complete.  I took an informal survey a few years ago of the members of the Masters Committee and this was the method most used, including Carolyn Vance, who I like to refer to as The Mitten Queen (Carolyn's Ravelry Project Page).  She knits a lot of mittens and she knows a few things about knitting in the round.

Another method is to transfer the last stitch to the left needle and the first stitch to the right needle and then knit the first row.  This is easier said than done if you are using small needles and it leaves a bit of a bump.  I've had knitters tell me the only way to join is to cast on an extra stitch, transfer the last stitch to the left needle and knit it together with the first stitch.  I've even seen references where you use the yarn tail to work the first stitch and then drop it or to use both the yarn tail and the working yarn to work the first few stitches.  You decide what method works best for you...

Here is the video where I discuss this and how to avoid twisting the stitches:  Circular Knitting Cast On.

KNITTING SALON
Salon will be on January 17th from 1:30 to 3:30.

CURRENT PROJECTS
I finally finished up the knee highs.  I must have ripped them out five times.  The challenge with knee highs is shaping the calf.  I wanted the shaping to fit in with the stitch pattern.  Here is what I finally came up with.  The dental elastics show where I made increases.  I haven't written the pattern yet so I need them!



Here is the finished sock.



The foot on the form isn't really foot size, hence the bunching.  This color is much more accurate. The yarn is Miss Babs Hot Shot.  There is a short pair to go with the pattern as well.  Here they are.



The Confident Beginner pattern is for skinny scarves (4.5-5" wide).  There are three.  I used simple lace patterns that are easiest enough for even new knitters.  Here are close ups of the stitch patterns.







Are you sensing a trend in the color palette for this issue?  This yarn is Madelinetosh Silk Merino.

Just two more things to go.  I am knitting a dress and a lacy overdress,  I'm using Anzula Breeze doubled for the dress.  Here is how far along I am with the dress.  I'm doing a tubular cast on.

Paired Lifted Increases

This photo more or less sums up how I spend the month of  December.  This year I baked 22 different types of cookies.  If  you are on my Christmas list, this is what you get.



A couple of friends came over to help decorate the sugar cookies.  They spent hours making them look lovely.  My style is to stick googly eyes and  mustaches on everything although I did take some time to make a gingerbread Cyclops and goddess Kali.



STUDENT NEWS
I have received very few lessons to review during the month of December.  I think things will pick up now that the holidays are over.

TIP OF THE WEEK
The tip this week is very self serving (yet again).  I am doing a pair of knee high socks for the summer issue of Cast On.  The pattern is a lacy rib.  The difficulty in designing knee highs is how to incorporate the stitch pattern into the calf shaping.  I wanted to increase two stitches in a column of purl stitches.  The best way to do this is with paired lifted increases.  These aren't the same as a double increase as they are worked in two stitches next to each other.  I've used this technique before in designs I have done (Medusa Coat &Medusa Skirt).

I've marked the location of the increases with arrows.  At the bottom I worked a left slanting lifted increase purlwise and then a right slanting lifted increase purlwise.  The slant isn't as important when you are working these increases purlwise.  At the top I worked a left slanting increase knitwise and then a right slanting increase.  When you work the knit version the slant is important.  The photo shows the RS of this work.


Here is the WS.



The video shows how to work the increases.  Here is the link:  Paired Lifted Increases

KNITTING SALON
Salon will be on Sunday from 2-4pm.  I will be driving to the Louisville airport.  We are stopping by at the Kentucky Historical Society museum.  They have a special exhibit of memorabilia from the movie White Christmas.  It looks interesting.

CURRENT PROJECTS
I finished up all of my holiday knitting before Christmas but in my haste to ship everything off, I didn't get photos.  I got the yarn from Miss Babs for one of the projects I am doing for Cast On.  THe yarn from Madelinetosh is scheduled to arrive Monday.  I haven't heard when the Anzula yarn is shipping.  Here is a closeup of the sock.

I've got a bit to go but I should finish it up today or tomorrow.  I must have ripped this thing out 20 times.  I tend to do this when I am not on a tight deadline!

Helix Knitting

It is that time of year again where I divide my time between baking a zillion cookies (no, I am not kidding) and finishing up holiday gifts.  For many years my Novembers and Decembers were spent as the stage director for a ballet company putting on The Nutcracker which pretty much ensured that complete exhaustion by the end of the run.  I now have replaced that activity with others.  I can't complain, no one is holding a gun to my head!

This is a gift my dear little George left for me.  He pulled this skein out of a bag and had a lot of kitty fun.  There must be something about The Fiber Company's Cumbria that is intoxicating to cats.  I untangled it and used it to make a hat for myself (see below).



STUDENT NEWS
I am going to be updating the Basics class in the new year to match some changes to the Masters Program which is currently undergoing some revisions.  As always, anyone who has taken the class in the past can request the new materials.  I will post a message when the updates are made and ready.

TIP OF THE WEEK
I had an email from someone who liked the entry I did on one row stripes in flat knitting and asked if there was a technique for circular knitting.  I said there was and that I would do it for my tip this week.  Well, I should have checked the index before doing this post but what can I say, I've done a lot of videos so now there will be two.  Also Helix Knitting is the topic of the Stitch Anatomy lesson in the Spring issue of Cast On.  Leslie Gonzalez wrote the article and has two wonderful pillows to demonstrate the technique.

I have a fondness for this technique.  I "discovered" it in Montse Stanley's A Knitter's Handbook (which is full of arcane tips if you just sit down and read it).  I used this technique for the very first pattern I did for Cast On magazine a million years ago.  It was called Varsity Socks and since the magazine is published in Ohio, they selected Scarlet and Gray, colors of The Ohio State University. 

This technique lets you work single row stripes in the round without every cutting the yarn.  No Yarn Tails to Weave In!  For this entry used only two colors.  (For the previous entry I used three.)

Basically, how this technique works is that you divide the total number of stitches by the number of colors you have.  In my sample I have 32 stitches and two colors.  I cast on 16 stitches in each color.  You can work this technique on circulars but my sample is on DPNs.  If you look at the photograph below you can see two yarn tails at the cast on edge.  You can also see that I have two strands of working yarn.  Once you have cast on, you join the stitches in one color to the other by knitting a round with Color A.  (You have to be careful not to twist the colors like you would with any join in the round except with this technique you have two joins).  You work up to the working yarn strand of Color B knit the round up to the working yarn of Color A.  That is all you do.  For two color stripes you work the complete round.  If you are using more colors you work up to the next working yarn (Multiple Color Stripes).



 The first time I tried this technique it seemed like magic.  How does it work?  If you've done any color knitting in the round, you know that when you end a round it does not line up with the beginning of the round.  You get a jog,  Circular knitting is a spiral.  There really isn't a beginning and and end and this technique takes advantage of that property.  In the photo below, notice how the white yarn cast on spirals over the blue cast on edge.   



Before you get too excited about this technique, there are pitfalls.  Like any colorwork, yarn management is a problem.  For each stripe, you must have a ball of yarn.  The other problem is when you pick up the new color.  When first tried this I had a tendency to pull the new yarn tightly.  All this does is make the stitches from the previous round much smaller.  It is quite ugly.  Be sure to work the first few stitches in the new color with an even tension.

Here is the new video:  Two Color Helix Knitting

KNITTING SALON
There won't be Salon this week as I will be in Las Vegas for the weekend.  It is the anniversary of my mother-in-law's death and Las Vegas was her favorite place so we are dedicating our trip to her.  If I never make another post, you will know that I won big and have moved to the South of France.

CURRENT PROJECT
I was reminded that we needed a pattern for new TKGA members.  I designed this hat years ago and have been meaning to write up the pattern so here is my opportunity.  Like last year, I am making hats using the the pattern for the TKGA staff and a few others.  I've finished four hats and have three to go.  It doesn't take much time even though it uses reversible cables.  I used Swans Island Natural Colors for the blue and cream hats.  Recognize the gray as George's favorite yarn?